Although everyone likes to blame the battery first and foremost for the difficulty in starting the engine, it is not the only reason for the "inconvenient situation" and the inability to start the engine. Unfortunately, it is only when we buy and install a new battery that we realise that the problem is not solved. The cause of the weak or heavy rotation of the electric starter does not have to be due solely to the battery. The vehicle's motor starter is the biggest consumer of electricity and the reason why the batteries need to be powerful enough to run the pistons in order to ignite, to create compression and a high enough temperature to ignite the fuel-air mixture. Just think of what an electric starter has to do to get the engine to 250rpm? It has to overcome the resistance of cold parts, thick oil, low temperatures and due to all his, as well as other stresses, causes the electric starter to wear out over the years. And if it's not working properly, it's also over-draining itself and accelerating battery drain. That's why a change in the sound when starting should refer you to a repairer, so that you don't waste your expensive battery unnecessarily. The problem may also be with the alternator or a generator, which supplies all the vehicle's consumables, including the battery, with electricity. If in a bad condition, the lights will not be fully lit if you switch them on before starting the engine.

Any marginal sound that can be absorbed in softer tyres in summer can be more pronounced in winter conditions. This is particularly true for chassis and axlebox sounds due to the lower stiffness of the material in winter and the mechanical resistance in the structural elements. Although they are flexible and move in several directions, all these elements are in fact closely connected. Therefore, any "new" sound indicates wear. It is not easy to determine the origin of the sound as it usually occurs when the suspension parts are subjected to a higher load – driving over bumps, potholes and so on – and the driver can only tell from inside the vehicle the direction that the sound is coming from. However, this is normal as sounds are transmitted through the metal structure and it is difficult to locate them in the same way all the time. That's why the vehicle has to be lifted onto a crane in the workshop and diagnosed, first by an optical inspection and then by load testing with the movement of the individual parts. The ball joints of the fork with the wheel sleeve as well as the balance arm connections are particularly sensitive to impacts and to the appearance of clearance or gaps in them, which are immediately manifested by tapping. As it must be flexible in all directions, the ball joint is permanently lubricated at the factory and protected by a rubber cover. Damage to this cover even before the sounds are heard is a sign for replacement, because by then moisture and salt from the road surface have already penetrated the interior and most likely damaged the joint.

Shock absorbers that can no longer absorb the force of impacts, or that show signs of grease from leaks, and if their rubber mounts are damaged at the same time, will also make strange noises. A shock absorber test and suspension check will be carried out at every technical inspection regardless of whether it is time for a more detailed technical inspection or not. The steering mechanism is also connected by ball joints, and if you hear any clicking or banging when turning the steering wheel in place or while driving, you need to check the steering connections, otherwise you risk part of the steering wheel failing, which can have serious consequences. When a sound-producing element is detected, it is very likely that neighbouring elements are also no longer functioning optimally and may even be slightly damaged. Note also that the parts of the joint, whether left or right, are always replaced together – just as with shoes, when you always replace or buy a new pair, not just one shoe.

Fighting dewed windows is also one of the indicators of problems or just an indicator of the wrong approach, and with the exception of some vehicles equipped with too weak air conditioning compressor, with four passengers in the vehicle, they simply don't have a large enough air drying capacity. Windscreen dewing is caused by a large temperature difference inside the cabin or outside the vehicle due to condensation on the windscreens. Moisture is created by our bodies breathing, by the many things we may have in the trunk or under the seat, by the channels clogged with autumn leaves, and by the water that doesn't drain out. Doors are often full of water too.

To prevent glass dew, you need to ensure good airflow in the vehicle, and this is where ventilation or air conditioning comes in, drying the air so that moisture from the air condenses on the evaporator and leaves under the vehicle as condensate. If the dew problem persists, the permeability of the heating system, which is carried out by the flow of heated engine coolant through a heater located under the dashboard in the cabin, should be checked. If we see a loss or drop in engine coolant level, it's probably because the cabin heater has become porous and is leaking coolant, and the fan keeps blowing this wet, evaporated fluid onto the windows. Buying a used car with dewed windows can be a big expense, as on some models the problem can only be solved by removing the entire cockpit, which can take hours of work.